{"id":22141,"date":"2022-06-13T16:50:54","date_gmt":"2022-06-13T20:50:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/world.dan.org\/?post_type=dan_alert_diver&p=22141"},"modified":"2023-02-08T14:33:24","modified_gmt":"2023-02-08T19:33:24","slug":"cayman-brac","status":"publish","type":"dan_alert_diver","link":"https:\/\/world.dan.org\/fr\/alert-diver\/article\/cayman-brac\/","title":{"rendered":"Ca\u00efman Brac"},"content":{"rendered":"

LES \u00ceLES CA\u00cfMANS SONT COMPOS\u00c9ES DE TROIS \u00ceLES<\/strong><\/span> \u2014 two of which divers know quite well. Grand Cayman\u2019s reputation is built on fun in the sun, the vast Seven Mile Beach, cruise ships, snorkel excursions to Stingray City, and diving. Little Cayman is much smaller, but travelers revere it for its quiet, laid-back ambiance and the stellar dive opportunities along the iconic Bloody Bay Wall and Jackson\u2019s Bight. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cayman Brac, however, is not as well-known among dive aficionados despite the island\u2019s infrastructure and attractions above and below the waterline. The big airstrip at Charles Kirkconnell International Airport accommodates large jets and offers multiple options for daily air service. A great dive resort and several smaller guest properties offer coordinated dive services on this 12-mile-long, 1-mile-wide island. Planes, boats, rooms, restaurants, tanks, compressors, and the clear, blue Caribbean Sea \u2014 what more could you want in a tropical dive destination?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

During a recent visit, I was reminded of how good it is there. Cayman Brac was part of my first overseas assignment for a dive magazine. The resort I stayed at then is no longer there, but on this trip we boarded the boats at the same government pier and went to many of the same dive sites I had experienced 40 years ago. In the decade after my first trip, I continued to dive Cayman Brac at least once a year as the photo pro for the Nikonos Shootout events. Each summer several hundred divers gathered there for a Nikon-sponsored photo contest and a week on location to celebrate underwater photography. My daughter\u2019s first Caribbean dive destination was Cayman Brac, although she was only three months old and probably doesn\u2019t remember it as well as I do.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was an element of d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu during this recent trip, although it was also quite different in many ways. Arriving at the airport and schlepping my bags was familiar, but the cab driver at the airport was especially excited to see me. I first thought his demeanor was the typical friendliness of the people there, but I soon learned I was the first international visitor in nearly two years. With travel restrictions largely gone and the cash flow ramping up again, he was happy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L'\u00e9pave du M\/V Capitaine Keith Tibbets<\/em> est en grande partie effondr\u00e9e
au milieu du navire, mais la proue et la poupe sont pratiquement intactes. <\/h5>\n\n\n\n

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Poisson-lion et plongeurs \u00e0 l'arri\u00e8re du bateau Tibbets<\/em> \u00e9pave<\/h5>\n\n\n\n

While good diving is likely available all around the island, Cayman Brac\u2019s topography dictates where most of the diving happens. The airport is on the island\u2019s flatter western end, and the guest accommodations and dive services are close to the airport. To the east rises a dramatic bluff that\u2019s inhospitable for docks and is a long boat ride from the west. The western tip is closer to Little Cayman than Cayman Brac\u2019s North East Point 12 miles away. Occasional bluff-run boat dives happen in favorable conditions, but the majority of the moored dive sites are along the northwest side of the island in the lee of the prevailing winds. The southwest side also has several quality dive sites, although they are a bit more weather dependent. A one-week dive holiday that combines diving north- and south-side sites, a bluff run, and a half-day, three-tank trip to nearby Little Cayman will provide extraordinary diversity. Perhaps the Brac\u2019s greatest charm is the variety of dives available there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mon dernier voyage a commenc\u00e9 par une plong\u00e9e au La vall\u00e9e de Grunt<\/strong> pour r\u00e9pondre \u00e0 mon d\u00e9sir de photographier des bancs de poissons. Des bancs de chevesnes des Bermudes se sont m\u00eal\u00e9s \u00e0 diverses esp\u00e8ces de grunts et de vivaneaux ma\u00eetres le long des t\u00eates coralliennes de haut profil entre 25 et 35 pieds. Il y avait curieusement une forte densit\u00e9 de homards cette fois-ci, et bien que le r\u00e9cif ait sembl\u00e9 sensiblement le m\u00eame que lors de ma derni\u00e8re plong\u00e9e ici en 2012, les vivaneaux et les grunts \u00e9taient nettement plus craintifs. Deux ann\u00e9es avec moins de plongeurs ont peut-\u00eatre eu un effet, mais il ne fait aucun doute qu'ils se r\u00e9acclimateront rapidement \u00e0 la pr\u00e9sence des plongeurs et qu'ils poursuivront leurs activit\u00e9s de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re imperturbable que dans mon souvenir. Ce site est id\u00e9al pour une plong\u00e9e d'\u00e9chauffement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La deuxi\u00e8me plong\u00e9e (les plong\u00e9es du matin sont g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement des plong\u00e9es \u00e0 deux bouteilles) a \u00e9t\u00e9 effectu\u00e9e dans le site au nom peu \u00e9vocateur de Patch Reef<\/strong>. Avec 70 sites de plong\u00e9e amarr\u00e9s, je suppose que l'on manque d'inspiration pour les nommer. Ce qui manque \u00e0 ce site en termes d'appellation est compens\u00e9 par la d\u00e9coration. La structure du fond dans les eaux peu profondes \u00e9tait riche en \u00e9ponges tubulaires jaunes et en coraux durs, les \u00e9ponges poussant parfois sur le corail c\u00e9r\u00e9bral. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Despite the colorful sponges and filter feeders decorating the seafloor, which would generally suggest the presence of currents, none of my dives had any perceptible current. The dive operators are cognizant of tides and local conditions, and they pick sites that aren\u2019t particularly challenging. Unlike the Gulf Stream currents in the Florida Keys or the flow typical off Cozumel, dives here are generally mellow. The conditions are ideal for beginning divers or underwater photographers who prefer to stay in one place to set up a shot \u2014 anyone who will benefit from not having to work particularly hard to stay put.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Notre groupe \u00e9tant restreint, nous avons fait un troisi\u00e8me plongeon vers l'un de leurs nouveaux sites d'amarrage, All\u00e9e des tortues<\/strong>. While the reef at the mooring pin\u2019s base was much like the others (no surprise given their proximity), the mid-reef in 45 to 55 feet of water was rich with barrel and row pore rope sponges as well as the gorgonians typical of deeper reefs with a bit of current flow. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite the colorful sponges and filter feeders decorating the seafloor, which would generally suggest the presence of currents, none of my dives had any perceptible current. The dive operators are cognizant of tides and local conditions, and they pick sites that aren\u2019t particularly challenging. Unlike the Gulf Stream currents in the Florida Keys or the flow typical off Cozumel, dives here are generally mellow. The conditions are ideal for beginning divers or underwater photographers who prefer to stay in one place to set up a shot \u2014 anyone who will benefit from not having to work particularly hard to stay put.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L'\u00e9pave du M\/V Capitaine Keith Tibbets <\/em><\/strong>is a highlight of any Cayman Brac dive expedition. In the 1999 dive guide I published with Bill Harrigan, the photos show a ship upright in the sand, perched on the edge of Cayman Brac\u2019s north wall. At that time it was referred to as the \u201cRussian Destroyer\u201d or simply the \u201c356.\u201d In Shipwrecks of the Cayman Islands (\u00e9paves des \u00eeles Ca\u00efmans),<\/em> Lawson Wood raconte en d\u00e9tail l'histoire de son naufrage au large de l'\u00eele. Le capitaine Wayne Hasson, de la flotte Aggressor, \u00e9tait en cale s\u00e8che pour la construction du navire. Cayman Aggressor<\/em> en 1996, lorsqu'il l'a rep\u00e9r\u00e9 sur un quai d'une base de la marine cubaine. Il mesurait 330 pieds de long, avec une poutre de 43 pieds et une coque en acier, et avait \u00e9t\u00e9 construit avec une superstructure en aluminium pour gagner du poids. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hasson learned it was to be scrapped for parts and had the epiphany that it would make a terrific artificial reef, so he reached out to the Cayman Ministry of Tourism and Transport, which shared his enthusiasm for creating a new dive attraction for Cayman Brac. After purchase from the Russian embassy, a tow from Cuba to the Brac, and a thorough cleaning, the ship was anchored and sunk on Sept. 17, 1996 \u2014 the result of countless volunteer hours but a relatively low $300,000 expenditure. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un quart de si\u00e8cle au fond de l'eau a fait des ravages. Tibbets<\/em>. Il n'est plus debout et repose maintenant sur son c\u00f4t\u00e9 b\u00e2bord le long de la pente de sable. Une grande partie de sa superstructure s'est effondr\u00e9e. Je suis descendu \u00e0 environ 85 pieds pour commencer la plong\u00e9e en photographiant un grand groupe d'\u00e9ponges tubulaires sur les rambardes de la proue. La plupart des plongeurs nagent probablement vers la proue et remontent progressivement le long des ponts en passant devant des garde-corps d\u00e9cor\u00e9s de couleurs vives. Ils font une pause \u00e0 l'emplacement des canons avant, passent devant le champ de d\u00e9bris qui se trouve maintenant au milieu du navire et terminent leur plong\u00e9e au niveau des canons arri\u00e8re et du pont, qui sont moins profonds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s nice to have ample time on the stern deck, as it is one of the most photographically productive parts of the wreck. The sponge density along the rear railings is quite impressive, and the guns are awesome for a wide-angle setup with models. The money they spent to keep the guns on the wreck was a great deal, for they truly define and distinguish this wreck from so many others. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

On this day I had a nice pass from a hawksbill turtle at the stern and a wonderfully photogenic lionfish nestled in the sponges cloaking the railings. Nonendemic lionfish are ubiquitous and can be part of the reef detail for dive journalists. Once the local dive operators begin to more regularly dive their sites and lionfish culling starts anew, lionfish populations may dwindle; but without significant dive activity here for two years, I expected the reefs to have a lot more lionfish than I saw. I didn\u2019t find one on every dive, and I didn\u2019t see more than one or two on any dive. This is not an empirical fish census, just a casual observation that it was counterintuitive to see so few lionfish on the reefs this time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Corail Elkhorn \u00e0 Angel Reef<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Cayman Brac, en s\u00e9jour au Cayman Brac Beach Resort, en tournage pour Alert Diver Magazine.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Mur\u00e8ne verte \u00e0 Treehouse Reef <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Je me fais toujours un devoir de visiter les trois fantastiques plong\u00e9es de la paroi nord : Chute Est, Chute Moyenne, <\/strong>et Chute Ouest. <\/strong>L'East Chute \u00e9tait autrefois tr\u00e8s appr\u00e9ci\u00e9e en raison de la pr\u00e9sence d'un petit remorqueur. Marin des Ca\u00efmans <\/em>sitting in the sand at about 55 feet, which was a nice place to offgas at the end of the dive. The past few passing storms have pretty well pancaked that wreck, so we opted for West Chute, mostly to see something new. I\u2019m glad we did, because it was an outstanding dive. I had been asking for a chance to shoot some pillar coral because of the threat from the stony coral tissue loss disease that is raging through so many Caribbean island reefs, and I wondered how they fared on the Brac. There was no sign of coral disease on these deep coral buttresses in the 70- to 80-foot range, and I saw one fascinating pillar coral that was pristine except for an adjacent barrel sponge beginning to overtake it. Other pillar corals at Fin de l'\u00eele<\/strong> et R\u00e9cif de l'ange<\/strong> looked healthy. I\u2019m not a coral scientist, but I think these reefs on the whole are doing quite well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En dehors du corail pilier, qui aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 une justification suffisante pour la plong\u00e9e, nous avons trouv\u00e9 une tortue imbriqu\u00e9e douce qui grignotait une \u00e9ponge baril. Elle a tol\u00e9r\u00e9 plusieurs photos et a ensuite nag\u00e9 tranquillement le long de la face arri\u00e8re de la bommie corallienne. Nous avons \u00e9chang\u00e9 quelques high five en signe d'exaltation pour une s\u00e9rie de photos aussi productives, puis nous sommes remont\u00e9s sur le bateau pour notre prochaine plong\u00e9e \u00e0 Maison dans les arbres<\/strong> \u00e0 Stake Bay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J'ai rappel\u00e9 au personnel de plong\u00e9e qu'une mur\u00e8ne verte particuli\u00e8rement agressive \u00e9tait venue \u00e0 ma rencontre la derni\u00e8re fois que je suis venu ici, il y a dix ans. Ils ont reconnu qu'il fut un temps o\u00f9 les mur\u00e8nes vertes \u00e9taient un peu fringantes, s'attendant \u00e0 \u00eatre nourries de poissons-lions apr\u00e8s l'abattage et associant ainsi les plongeurs \u00e0 un repas gratuit. Ils ont rapidement d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de modifier leurs protocoles d'\u00e9limination des carcasses de poissons-lions, mais le renforcement intermittent est un comportement difficile \u00e0 \u00e9liminer. Les mur\u00e8nes vertes de Treehouse sont toujours susceptibles d'\u00eatre trouv\u00e9es en train de nager librement, mais elles ne sont plus aussi pleines d'espoir ces jours-ci. Il y avait aussi un joli requin nourrice sous une corniche, mais c'\u00e9tait destin\u00e9 \u00e0 \u00eatre notre journ\u00e9e tortues. Nous avons trouv\u00e9 une autre tortue imbriqu\u00e9e dans les bas-fonds, semblant poser contre n'importe quelle \u00e9ponge tubulaire jaune ou \u00e9ventail de mer violet qu'elle pouvait trouver pour cr\u00e9er un arri\u00e8re-plan magnifique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ma compagne de plong\u00e9e, Barbara McDowall, est une v\u00e9t\u00e9rane de la plong\u00e9e \u00e0 Brac. Chaque fois que j'ai demand\u00e9 \u00e0 voir une vie marine ou une structure corallienne famili\u00e8re d'autrefois, elle a pu me sugg\u00e9rer les r\u00e9cifs les mieux reproduits. Elle m'a sugg\u00e9r\u00e9 les r\u00e9cifs du sud-ouest, situ\u00e9s \u00e0 quelques encablures du centre de plong\u00e9e, pour ma recherche de coraux elkhorn et pillar. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je me souviens des premiers jours o\u00f9 j'ai photographi\u00e9 des diapositives Velvia de for\u00eats de cornes massives qui dominaient le r\u00e9cif frangeant et peu profond du c\u00f4t\u00e9 sud. Bien qu'une grande partie de ces \u00e9lod\u00e9es ne soit plus qu'un vestige squelettique, il existe des peuplements intermittents d'\u00e9lod\u00e9es impressionnants. Sergent-major Reef,<\/strong> en particulier, pr\u00e9sente des \u00e9lkhorns isol\u00e9s mais intacts, m\u00eal\u00e9s \u00e0 des cascades de coraux \u00e9toil\u00e9s. Ce n'est qu'apr\u00e8s avoir plong\u00e9 dans de nombreux endroits o\u00f9 ces coraux ont disparu que l'on se rend compte \u00e0 quel point les endroits o\u00f9 ils subsistent sont sp\u00e9ciaux. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En accord avec le th\u00e8me r\u00e9tro de la semaine, notre derni\u00e8re plong\u00e9e consistait \u00e0 R\u00e9cif de l'ange<\/strong>. Cette fois, mon compagnon de plong\u00e9e \u00e9tait Jason Belport, qui avait commenc\u00e9 sa longue et brillante carri\u00e8re dans les op\u00e9rations de plong\u00e9e en tant que divemaster \u00e0 Cayman Brac et qui a conserv\u00e9 une connaissance intime de ces r\u00e9cifs. Lorsque je lui ai dit que j'\u00e9tais toujours \u00e0 la recherche de corail pilier, il m'a infailliblement dirig\u00e9 vers un sp\u00e9cimen particuli\u00e8rement impressionnant. Une fois la photo prise, nous nous sommes embarqu\u00e9s pour nager autour des coraux dans la zone des 40 \u00e0 50 pieds. J'ai \u00e9t\u00e9 ravi de voir un m\u00e9rou de Nassau se diriger vers moi, freiner des quatre fers et me fixer avec impatience. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I hadn\u2019t seen any groupers all week, which Barbara predicted would be the case because we were just off the full moon in February. The Cayman Brac grouper population had moved to Little Cayman for the annual grouper spawn known as \u201cgrouper moon.\u201d By the end of my trip, however, several groupers had made it back to Brac reefs and were now making puppy goo-goo eyes at me \u2014 a behavior generally associated with food more than friendship.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J'ai r\u00e9pondu en les prenant en photo, bien s\u00fbr, mais s'ils s'attendaient \u00e0 une aum\u00f4ne de ma part, ils auraient \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9\u00e7us. J'ai pens\u00e9 aux journ\u00e9es de nourrissage des poissons aux Ca\u00efmans, en particulier au m\u00e9rou Goliath connu sous le nom de Sweetlips, qui se tenait sur les plages de l'\u00eele. Oro Verde<\/em> naufrage et a fait la couverture de Skin Diver<\/em> magazine back in the day. Sweetlips dined on a diet of frozen squid and Cheez Whiz for a few years until she wasn\u2019t there anymore. Local divers speculated she might have eaten one too many Ziploc baggies from careless tourists, and her demise might have been one of the motivators for the Cayman Islands Department of Environment\u2019s edict against fish feeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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M\u00e9rou de Nassau et
plongeur \u00e0 Angel Reef <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

These groupers were a legacy of classical conditioning, but not from fish feeding, for that was never a thing on Cayman Brac. In the early days of lionfish culling, however, the groupers, like the green morays over in Stake Bay, came to associate divers with a free meal. It seems the larger groupers are unlikely to take a live lionfish, but they would opportunistically scoop up one that had been speared and discarded on the seafloor. That doesn\u2019t happen anymore, and presumably the groupers will extinguish that behavior one day. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For now, it was the highlight of my dive to have such friendly Nassau groupers hover within inches of my dome port, whatever their motivation might have been. I told myself that somehow they knew I don\u2019t eat fish and wanted to reward me with proximity. AD<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Comment y plonger<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pour s'y rendre :<\/strong> Plusieurs compagnies a\u00e9riennes proposent des vols \u00e0 destination de l'a\u00e9roport international Owen Roberts de Grand Cayman pour des vols de correspondance vers Cayman Brac. Un vol de 40 minutes permet de rejoindre Cayman Brac et Little Cayman. Le samedi, Cayman Airways propose un vol sans escale de 90 minutes \u00e0 destination de Cayman Brac au d\u00e9part de Miami. Il est encore plus facile de se rendre \u00e0 Grand Cayman depuis que l'a\u00e9roport a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9nov\u00e9 et que des vols sans escale partent d'Atlanta (Delta) ; de Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas\/Fort Worth, Miami ou Philadelphie (American) ; de Newark, Washington, D.C., Houston ou Chicago (United) ; de Fort Lauderdale ou Baltimore (Southwest) ; de New York, Boston ou Fort Lauderdale (Jet Blue) ; ou de Toronto (Air Canada ou West Jet).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Conditions :<\/strong> The water temperature is usually 80\u00b0F to 85\u00b0F year-round, so a 3 mm wetsuit is perfect. Air temperatures are 74\u00b0F to 91\u00b0F. Visibility on Cayman Brac varies from good to outstanding \u2014 60 feet to more than 100 feet unless there is a strong, consistent wind. When the north wind picks up, the waves can batter the beach and ironshore and stir the sediment on the shallow hardpan seafloor. The good news is that this leaves the southern dive sites with good visibility. The opposite is true with a southern or southeastern wind. It takes a heavy tropical disturbance to lose dive days on the Brac, but it can happen. The elevation is higher than Little Cayman, so Cayman Brac has weathered most hurricanes reasonably well. Still, events such as Hurricane Paloma can do massive damage.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Dive operators prefer that recreational divers keep to 100 feet and shallower. Currents aren\u2019t often an issue, and most diving is in reasonably calm conditions. The dive operations are professional and safe, and most operate large and seaworthy boats. A hyperbaric chamber is in George Town, Grand Cayman.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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En savoir plus<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

See more of Cayman Brac in Stephen Frink\u2019s bonus online gallery.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a9 STEPHEN FRINK<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\n\n\t\t\t\t\t
 <\/div>\n\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\n\n\t\t\t\t\t
 <\/div>\n\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\n\n\t\t\t\t\t
 <\/div>\n\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\n\t\t\t \n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n\n\t\t